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I have a 1986 also, Can you give me some info on the one you have because I know that will work for mine and I am having problems finding the exact same one on amazon that you installed. Thanks

What link you use to buy this carburetor

Did you deill your own hole in the end plate, or did you buy it like that?

Why do you have to field strip it first? Answer: You don’t.

Like a lot of AR owners, I'm a tinkerer, and I'm constantly swapping out parts and experimenting. It always annoyed me that swapping stocks, end plates, etc. would result in that detent spring flying out or getting in the way. I tried this yesterday, and the results are great! I wish I'd known about this years ago. It's so easy and really convenient. The tools are cheap, too.

Thank you for making this very simple and to the point!!

Hi! Thank you for the video! Was searching the correct procedure for executing NADP1 TO with the 57/67. Could you also select climb thrust or LVL CH (keeping V2+20 in the speed window) at 1500 AGL and then VNAV at 3000 AGL?

YOU BETTER SECURE THAT LOWER A HELL OF A LOT BETTER while tapping that hole!

This vid is old AF but please take head that Dissimilar Metal Corrosion is an issue. Why would you use SS? Why not use a nylon setscrew?

I did mine,they save a lot of headache in the long run.

I know it's been a while since this video, but I appreciate it (the video) because I'd been thinking about doing it but didn't know any of the sizes on any of it. Thank You.

7 years later and still the most helpful video I've found on how to do it. Thank YOU!

Thanks. Great Idea.....I wonder why it cannot be done at the Factory??

Couldn’t you just cut the length of the set screw off the spring? For example…If the screw is 1/4” then cut 1/4” off the spring?

Aero Precision does this to all their lowers.

Thanks for this. Works with the PDP as well.

Here's a tip lay a light colored towel down on the table that way if things do fall and drop they don't bounce and roll and they will stick out like a sore thumb against the backdrop of that light colored towel

I wonder if you can do that on the safety to

Great idea and funny how I found your video......I realized last night that after 15 of tinkering with the AR platform Im def still a newb..lol! I was installing a law tactical side folder and a Vltor A5 buffer set up on a newly SBR'd BAD workhorse. After backing off the castle nut and plate, watching carefully for the pesky spring not to launch.....there was no spring??? The takedown detent/spring hole is threaded and has a tiny screw behind the detent and spring so you dont have to worry about it flying out during disassembly/assembly. I hadnt seen that on any of my other lowers, so of course until looking into it on the BAD site i was on the ground with a flashlight.....what should have queud me in was the takedown pin was functioning fine...anyway live and learn.

That's a interesting idea.

Awesome video. Glad this showed up in my recommended list. I thought of doing this, but didn't know it was actually a thing. I'm gonna have to give it a shot. I have a 47 piece tap and die set, pretty sure that I have the one I need. A dab of grease or Vaseline on the tip of your driver will hold the lil set screw in place. It's a trick that we use in the RC world, and works quite well. You don't wanna slather it on there, just a tiny little bit does the trick. Of course, if you do use too much, it just squirts out around the head of the set screw (grub screw to the RC world) and makes a wee bit of a mess. I also drape a towel or gun mat down, to help cut down on the bouncing.

very well done! well thought out. Thanks

Jo. Jo was a man, who thought he was a?

Get part's while you can, uncle joe wants them micro stamped. 🤪🤢🤮

I believe I may have lost a spring or some sort, my spring doesn’t stay in place, once Fold the top receiver my spring comes flying out 😩😩

The important part is do this on a towel so things don’t “bounce around “ Good vid

Great idea, thanks

Could you please tell me the length size of the handles for this big hatch plz?

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Could you please tell me the length of the handles for this big hatch plz?

Now aero precision makes the M4E1

Aero Precision lowers are Threaded.

3:30... STOP! Now run a pipe cleaner through the hole to clean out any debris. Now proceed with the rest of the installation.

This is 100% unnecessary and way more difficult/time consuming than just installing the detent and spring the way you should lol

does this do anything outside of making the spring easier to control in takedown of the buffer tube? is there any other functional reason for it, it seems like if you do this its a risk to your reciever more that replacing a spring? is there an advantage im not ssing, or im i just a nervous nelly? lol

Even easier might be if the manufactures used a ball detect set screw. See MCMaster-Carr # 3408A65 as an example.

This should be OEM.

WTF? If your setscrew is 1/8" long then you cut 1/8" off the spring... It's not complicated unless you are a democrat!

No... It's a size #4 diameter, and 40 threads per inch... It won't "bind"... Aluminum will "gaul"... And the "holder" is a tap "T-Handle"

Thank you Paul

This is why i buy Aero lowers

Did mine kool tip thx

I have one AR where the receiver itself is tapped. I like this because I can take off the rear plate without worrying about the spring going somewhere. However, I like your idea as well, as usually the back plate is made of steel, instead of aluminum, which I think would be less likely to strip. Interesting alternative.

Did the end plate come with the hole for the spring or did you drill it?

after launching my 2nd spring into space this the best idea I have seen in awhile

😂🤣😂🤣 This video just showed up in my recommended. I thought to myself "Dad and I have been doing this to ARs since I was 10 (I'm currently 36)". I'm glad that this little hack has picked up in popularity. It's very useful. An added benefit is that *IF* you run the tap further in, you can increase or decrease the tension on the spring, which makes the takedown pin looser or tighter to move. Basically it can remove slop from older lowers. Good if your lower is well worn and the pin jiggles unwantedly. Also, with a different sized tap, you can do this to the safety selector as well, keeping the spring contained within the lower instead of housed in the grip. Another small improvement to consider.

You were so ahead of the game.. now there are manufacturers doing exactly this on their lowers...

Is your trailer galvanized or painted steel?

Or just buy an Aero/BA enhanced lower receiver. One trip to McMaster and I’m ready to build another 24 AR’s While you’re at Lowe’s or HD getting your tap and set screw, get yourself a Clevis pin for another $0.50 to install the front takedown pin.

Thank Paul. This video was detailed straight to the point and very helpful.